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Saturday, 07 October 2006 |
Amsterdam. A city of liberated social freedoms and relaxed attitudes towards drug use and sex is a popular destination for those seeking to experience a few days of uninhibited escape from the restraints of perhaps more conservative attitudes across the world. The City itself is steeped in culture and has a vivid history and simply stunning scenery across the many interconnected canals that divide and enhance the picturesque streets of the Old Centre. There is plenty to see and of course the history of the City with its part to play in the Second World War and the plight of Anne Frank. However, Amsterdam like most European cities is also an incredible destination for gay men and women wishing to sample a different scene from that which they are used to.
For the Gay traveller, Amsterdam offers a large scene that spreads itself across the city and is divided into four different “areas” each tailored to a different portion of the gay lifestyle. However, presiding over all four of these districts is the same liberalised attitude towards the sex industry. Amsterdam does strike you as somewhere where it is incredibly easy to have sex, but not necessarily in a friendly way. Obviously there is always a part of the gay lifestyle that accommodates casual sex and Amsterdam is certainly no different. But there is something of a different mood in the bars in the gay areas of Amsterdam. There is no threat or sense of being preyed upon; however what seems to be lacking from the Amsterdam gay scene is that of a sense of fun, perhaps even a sense of youthful abandon.
The largest and most densely populated gay area of Amsterdam is the Reguliersdwarsstraat area; it is here that most of the bars are and in the Summer especially where most of the men are enjoying drinks and food whilst watching the world go by. The Reguliersdwarsstraat is essentially the Compton Street, or Canal Street of Amsterdam with the trendiest bars and busiest cafes and clubs.
Where there is a difference between the scene in London and that of Amsterdam is the age of those out and about. There were few people below the age of 25 out on the nights when we were there and because of that it wasn’t hard to be recognised whilst sipping a vodka on the terrace of a bar! However, aside from a glance here and there, the men weren’t making advances and in fact seemed to stay involved with their own groups. Talking to two of the men in one particular bar was interesting as it offered something of a first hand insight into the pros and cons of the scene in Amsterdam. What did seem to prevail was that there was little friendship amongst those men who had slept together and especially prevalent was the attitude that clubbing was simply a means to have sex, (usually before leaving the club). This is of course a contrast to the friendly nature of the scene here in the UK with many clubs offering special nights with a younger focus. Moreover, in London at least it seems that there is camaraderie on the scene with people talking to one another as opposed to avoiding eye contact (for the most part)!
So is there a price to pay for the perhaps single minded nature of going out in Amsterdam? From talking to the two men we befriended in the bar it became apparent that after a while, simply going out to have sex loses its appeal and I suppose this comes with age. However, rather interestingly there was no medium point; all of the clubs seemed solely focussed on supplying dark rooms and promoting Class A drug abuse. The two men, who it transpired, had been a couple both had conflicting views on the scene, with one of them promoting the promiscuity of the scene and one warning against the dangers of some of the larger clubs.
There was a tangible difference in the ages of those out at the bars and this was to some extent explained by the knowledge that many younger gay men are closeted in Amsterdam; even more interestingly was that most men seem to live a life as a heterosexual before accepting their sexuality. This is somewhat interesting as Amsterdam seems to be a welcoming and liberated city with relaxed attitudes towards both Prostitution and lifestyle choices. Is this the case though? Obviously as a tourist it can become easy to prejudge a city based on commonly held stereotypes.
The city has plenty to offer the gay traveller aside from its vibrant bars. The best way to see the city is definitely by foot, or bicycle. Strolling through the streets and walking alongside the canals definitely ensures an intimate perspective on the delights of the city. Amsterdam is also a very romantic City and especially in early summer when the sun is shining it is indeed a perfect destination for a long weekend away to unwind. There is a diverse range of local and international cuisine and although seafood is a speciality there are plenty of very reasonable restaurants that offer exceptional food and intimate environments.
It is also definitely worth paying a visit to the Homomonument. Conceived as a metaphor for the past, present and future of gay men and women the monument is a series of three triangles that progress towards and then penetrate the water of the Canal. As a statement towards equality the monument is definitely worth seeing. In the same area of Amsterdam also sits Anne Frank’s house and museum which is truly a moving place. Seeing first hand the secret room behind the famous bookcase is both sombre and intriguing. It really does highlight the awful persecution of the Jewish community during the Second World War. Around and about further are the infamous flower markets and winding streets full of interesting little shops and cafés.
We stayed in Rembrandt Square, which is central to all districts of the City Centre and therefore an ideal place to start exploring. We decided to walk in a different direction each day and managed to take in most of the city over a long weekend. Obviously a large attraction of Amsterdam is the Red Light District, and it is definitely an experience to stroll the streets (especially at night, but do ensure that you do this as a group, as although the area is safe enough it can feel slightly intimidating). The whole of the district is centred around the Docks and historically the prostitutes would do a good trade in the sailors passing through Amsterdam. Nowadays the clientele is somewhat different but it is certainly worthwhile to see the Red Light Districts and then head off for a drink somewhere (possibly to recover?!)
Amsterdam is a very accommodating city and can be enjoyed on many levels. Whether you decide to get away with a friend for a weekend like we did or decide to go as a larger group to enjoy the liberalised social freedoms; Amsterdam should definitely be towards the top of any City Break to do list. There is enough history, culture and nightlife in equal measures to keep all types of tourist happy and the Dutch are exceptionally welcoming (especially due to English being widely spoken throughout the city). Getting to Amsterdam is very quick and cheap as well and once you land it is a brief train journey to the city centre. A very European city indeed, Amsterdam is unlikely to disappoint and certainly capable of providing lasting memories!
Contributed by:
Rob and Nick
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 07 October 2006 )
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